#BIG BOOTY TRACKRUNNER PLUS#

This is actually a two-part problem because A) if the link were torqued across the relatively sharp edge it could cause failure of the link, or B) it could pull the bolt from the rock since the load would be in tension rather than in shear. It should translate to anchors that are less likely to see dynamic loading as well. This is a specific no no when using a biner in a climbing anchor. Admittedly, problem #3 is difficult to diagnose from the photo.Ģ) The quicklink (let's call them what they are) is half way over the edge.

What's truly sad is that these bolts are less than two years old, and that they replaced well-placed bolts. This can cause the bolt to pull out of its hole. Both bolts are somewhat in tension, the upper more so than the lower. But that fact leads us to the fact that.ģ) Neither bolt is truly in shear. The only saving grace is that the extension of the anchor prevents any torquing of the link. If bolts should be four bolt lengths away from each other they should be four bolt lengths away from the edge.Ģ) The quicklink (let's call them what they are) is half way over the edge. The center line of that bad boy should be at least four bolt lengths away from the edge.

Here's what I see wrong with this anchor.ġ) The lower left bolt is too close to the edge of the roll over. That's not an accident but someone who knows what they're doing. I'd have probably gone more with a vertical set than the horizontal, but, personal preference.Įdit again: nicely placed the anchors flush to slightly below the rock surface. Anyone claiming responsibility? I've, uhh, seen folks with those types of glue ins before.Įdit to add something else I like: there's a vertical distance between the placements too, which uses a different layer of rock (easy to see with the layers of rock in the photo). I'd probably rappel fully on either one of the bolts by themselves. I guess, someone could have painted the stainless anchors, but, that can also be bad for glue adhesion and might be best done by hand with a brush at a later date. Probably should aim for an anchor length or two apart which they may come close to. Almost looks like they're a bit close, but, compact and reasonable.

Better might have been a touch back, but, its close enough to effect reducing the rope grooves on rappel.ĭistance between the anchors. The left-hand anchor almost looks a touch close to the edge of the scoop but, hard to see exactly. Someone who tied the webbing made a good attempt at a power point in the apparent direction of load. Not really a plus, though, as a ring would distribute wear better, but, still, its totally replaceable when worn so that's a plus. But, not really a negative.Īnchor ends in a compact single rapide, which, some folks don't like due to a lack of redundancy but is fully bomber and, small enough for the silly biner or knot blocks folks seem to have to use.

#BIG BOOTY TRACKRUNNER PLUS#

Plus again.Ĭould probably eliminate the rapides that are connected to the bolts but, its almost nice that folks are adding these as they'll keep folks from thinking about rappelling directly off the bolts (which would groove them out and ruin their placements).

Position looks like it minimizes rope grooves as its pitched out over a small scoop in the rock. Really, glue ins have got to be the best solution for the softer sandstone. Very few things to be critical of from my POV. I can see at least three thing that are potentially wrong with the anchor as it is installed, aside from the fact that it's bolted.Hmmm.

Big booty trackrunner